No.93 Bicycle touring in Liberia – A breath of New York City
I crossed the border from Sierra Leone to Liberia (MAP) quickly and without issue, my visa, which I had arranged through an agency in Monrovia, was ready to pick up at the counter. Organizing it online, I had saved myself the detour to the embassy in Freetown, the...
No.92 Sierra Leone – In monsoon rain through one of the poorest countries on earth
To act for oneself: How do I write about such a poverty-stricken country? How can I report objectively about a country without stepping on the toes of the local population and treating them unfairly? They are people who became dear to my heart. I don’t want to be...
A year of Africa in pictures – with tips on photography Part 1
A review of the year in pictures. Before continuing with the reports about my experiences in Africa, I would like to present some of my most beautiful visual moments of the past 365 days in Africa. For interested photographers, there is also the information...
No.90 Cycling in Guinea – friendliness, colors and monsoon
Guinea was different – Guinea was great. What I liked most about Guinea were the people. Friendly and unintrusive. Almost no begging. Pure relaxation. But to make things clear, Guinea wasn’t a walk in the park either. The border station was in a total no...
No.89 Senegal II, Casamance and Guinea-Bissau – Happy I am riding a bike
I had set myself three tasks for the Casamance, the south-western part of Senegal. (MAP)The first one was to take a break! To seal myself off. To calm down.I desperately needed some time alone. Distance from the hustle and bustle, the many people, the continuous noise...
No.88 Cycling The Gambia – Roller coaster of emotions, economic refugees, Ramadan
“What’s your mission?” the border official bellowed into my ears when I asked for a stamp at the tiny border crossing at the very eastern end of the small and undistinguished country on the Gambia River. Phew, finally people are speaking English again was...
No.87 Cycling in Senegal – Toubab Toubab – White person
“Are you married?” was the first question I was asked in the country. “No”, I answered briefly. “But you are getting old. You must finally marry now, otherwise it is too late”.The young man then turned to his buddy and said...
No.86 Bikepacking Mauritania – Iron ore train ride, multiculti and sand
“You’ll see, when you’re out of Morocco, you finally made it to Africa” I was told this again and again. And when I got closer to the Mauritanian border, it felt exactly like that. The border post was already noticeably more run-down than the one on...
No.85 Cycling Western Sahara – Strong wind, lots of traffic, endless, many police checks
Guelmim, on the 89th day of my Moroccan stay. The next day I should have left the country, but I was still about 1300 km away from the Mauritanian border.As arranged the evening before Mohammed met me at the café in my hotel in the morning to get started on my visa...
No.84 Morocco part III – A paradise for touring cyclists
The blokes whom I had the pleasure of listening to on New Year’s Eve, were real musicians. Really remarkable what a positive atmosphere they created and how they appeared to almost play themselves into a state of ecstasy.Jbel Sarhro, a mountain range that you...
No.83 Bicycle touring Africa – Morocco Part II – The fascination of the desert
I left Missour on a gravel road and was happy about my newly won freedom. Not having the police on my back anymore was just brilliant and from then on nothing stood in the way of camping. The landscape was rather unspectacular. But even the unglamorous stretches, with...
No.82 Bicycle touring Africa – Morocco part 1 – Police escort, amazing hospitality and great landscapes
I’ve been in Morocco for seven weeks now. Or better yet, surprisingly only seven weeks, because it feels like I’ve been on African soil for countless months now. A lot of exciting things have happened in the last few weeks. Or even more precise – in...
No. 81 Viva España – Bicycle touring in Spain or the land of many mountains
“The sun shines day and night – Eviva España” that’s the name of the famous folk song or not?Unfortunately, it was rather wet and cold. Thanks to climate change, this year the weather was totally crazy, so it was warm in the north of Europe and...
No.80 Off to Africa!
Yes, time for Africa! I would like to experience the many different cultures of Africa. Get to know the people and their way of life. To meet laughing children and to sort out preconceptions. To look at the world on the so-called “Dark Continent” for...
Nr.79 Getting home after 4.7 years is not an easy task
I was now eight months in my homeland. Eight months trying to get to know my old home again. A world I thought I knew by heart. A country that has become a stranger to me. It’s cold and hectic. Where speed dominates and people hardly have time to breathe. And...
Nr.78 USA – Bikepacking the terrific landscapes of the Colorado Plateau in Utah as well as the end of a 4.7 year long bicycle trip around the world
It was hot, piping hot when I started my tour around Utah. A dream. Those bizarre rock formations are simply terrific. They shine in all colors and shades and can be found here around every bend. The desert had me again and I was eager to experience it. The desert had...
Nr.77 USA – The American West is simply sensational
It felt like coming home, even if the real home was still to come. I was really looking forward to my nature and all the friendly Americans I would most certainly meet and was just happy to be back. For me, the American West continues to be one of the most marvelous...
No.76 Nicaragua – Not an easy decision
This blog post is already 4 months overdue. It’s hard for me to describe my time in Nicaragua in a fair and constructive way. But I have pushed this article away from me long enough and now it is finally time to post it. Even with the great distance I have now,...
No.75 Is Honduras a safe country for a solo female cyclist?
Guatemala, or rather Livingston, received me kindly. I spent 3 days in a great hostel overlooking the sea right from my hostel bed. Really relaxing and comfortable. The whole tourist bustle here was not really my thing – although of course I ate Nutella pancakes...
N0.74 – Belize – the land of colorful smiles
Why colorful? Because you can find all the skin colors of the world here, a country with an extremely large number of ethnic groups who, as it seemed to me, live together in a vivid and joyful way while still keeping their own cultures. Such extremely friendly people...
No.73 Guatemala – 4 years and 50.000 kilometers on the road
4 years and 50,000 kilometers …… Four loooong years and 50,000 long kilometers …. I crossed the river which marks the border to Guatemala with a small boat at the Frontera Corozal and was curious what lies ahead. I had great hopes for nice people and...
Nr.72 Bicycle touring Mexico – The long way to Guatemala
Let’s make it short. I don’t like Mexico, although the cities are really worth seeing and therefore it actually is unfair to come to this negative conclusion, especially since I had a brilliant time on the Baja California. But I simply can’t get used to the...
Nr. 71 Mexico – Exploring beautiful Central Mexico and it’s pretty colonial towns and pyramids – A short break without the bike
I started my short, somehow new trip experience, which took place without cycling in Sombrerete a -Pueblo Magico – a magical village in the state of Zacatecas in the North of Mexico. A great village full of street life and superb colorful houses, pretty churches and...
No.70 Bike touring in Northern Mexico – Copper Canyon to Durango
The ferry crossing to the mainland of Mexico was sweetened by two super nice German women. It was simply fun to talk in my native tongue for a while and to hear the latest news from home. While chatting we discovered a whale fountain in the distance...
No.69 Mexico – The Street Life – Bikepacking Baja Divide Trail IIII
I sometimes stayed in towns for almost a week to enjoy being among others. Cute little towns and tons of barking dogs. Somehow the street life is not really what I expected from Mexico. Latest at 8 PM the streets are dead and almost pitch dark. But what I tremendously...
No.68 Mexico – The Beach life – Bikepacking Baja Divide Trail III
I am pretty sure everyone of you has seen those beaches where people are lying like sardines and trying to get a glimpse of the ocean for themselves. I remember those times when I had to go on holiday with my parents at the age of nine or...
No.67 Mexico – Garden of Eden – Baja Divide Trail II
The light is different on the Baja California. Softer, not as colorful and less contrast as in other parts of the world. The low light gives the desert a somehow mystical feeling. Warm and cozy. I could easily write a love letter to this long and narrow Peninsula...
No.66 – Mexico – Taking on Baja Divide
The Baja Divide is a brand-new trail which crosses Baja California on rough and sandy trails. Always away from the tarmac and busy roads. 1700 miles to La Paz at the Southern end of the Baja. I wasn’t super excited to follow another red line someone else had created....
No.65 USA – Great cycling destination
My last kilometers in a beautiful country. But first a short resume. With the title super cycling destination I am saying goodbye to the land of unlimited possibilities. The American West is a bewitchingly beautiful area, where cycling is simply fun. The vastness, the...
No.64 – USA – Great Divide MTB Route
The new bike rolled fine. But soon I had pain in my neck and therefore I was constantly busy changing my saddle position. But it did not help much at all.
No.63 – USA – Accident, insurance drama, new bike
My bike – this stupid lady, with her big truck is sitting on top of my bike. She didn’t make a move. Not a single inch and she sat in her truck as if she wasn’t involved in what just happened. I shouted at her, “Good job – lady! Just in case you...
No.62 – Canada – Great Divide – What a gigantic trail
The longest MTB route in the world – Great Divide – Part 1 – Banff to Eureka –the Canadian Section. Many years ago I added this trail to my bucket list. There are 4500 KM (2774 miles) and 60,000 vertical meters from Banff, always along the...
No.61 – Canada – British Columbia – Could you tell me please how to get to the wilderness?
Canada is an outdoor paradise, right? Well, anyway, I heard that again and again. And according to many Canadians, British Columbia is one of the most amazing places on Earth. You can even see it written on the road signs and license plates. Okay, let’s...
No.60 – Canada – Haida Gwaii – The little island paradise in the Pacific
Some people call Haida Gwaii the “Edge of the World” because you can’t go any further west in Canada. Up until a few years ago, the group of islands was still known as the “Queen Charlotte Islands,” but it has been renamed to Haida Gwaii...
Nr.59 – Canada – A crisis caught up with me
What had suddenly gone wrong with me? Or had I felt that way perhaps for quite a while and just didn’t want to admit it to myself? I was no longer the Heike, who was cheerful and gladly torturing herself while struggling to reach the pass of the...
No.58 – USA – A fantastic time in the American West
Who or what are Americans really? This question has occupied me now for months. The only answer I have, however, is very limited, because Americans are as different and as divided in their way of thinking as you can possibly imagine. The conservatives...
No.57 – USA – Nevada – Winter cycling in Never Never Land
Cathedral Gorge Valley State Park offers beautiful views of rock formations like almost everywhere I’ve been recently. You would think these kinds of views would have to end, but in fact around each bend comes yet another fantastic outlook. Dawn, the Park...
No.56 – USA – Utah – Adventure Among Gigantic Rock Formations
So now I was back in the United States again and was wondering how I should continue. The next major goal on my long journey is Alaska, but getting there is a long and cold trail. After I had already cycled all the way through Arizona, I came to the conclusion that I...
No.55 – USA – Arizona – Biking in cactus country
Payson received me with a night at the cinema. I stayed at Warmshower hosts and they had their own cinema in the house. There were leftovers from “Thanks Giving”, along with a nice chat about the world. Cosmopolitan, wealthy Americans who...
No.54 – USA – Arizona Trail with a loaded bike
I stood at the starting point of the Arizona Trail. Or to be more precise, at my starting point, because the trail actually starts on the border with Utah and crosses the entire length of the state of Arizona all the way to the Mexican border. Eight...
No.53 – USA – Cycling Route 66, Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon
At Roy’s Café on Route 66, I was greeted very warmly by an elderly man with a gun on his belt. “Welcome to the Wild West”, I thought inwardly. “Unfortunately, only salt water comes out of my tap. But you can take as many...
No.52 – USA – Biking in the California desert
What a spectacular experience ! The sky was breathtaking! There was thunder and lightning and the world appeared to be coming to an end. In the desert it was like a match going on between the forces of the elements and I was smack-dab in the...
No.51 – Japan – Honshu – The Japanese are different
I was now in the Japanese civilization and, first of all, I had to get used to all the people, even though I was still far from being in any big city. But the hubbub had already become enough for me and it didn’t need to increase. Matsumoto is known for its...
No.50 – Japan – Honshu – Rain, forest and mountains
It just keeps on raining nonstop, every day. There was honestly not a single day without rain. But it continued to be warm and I somehow had to keep going forward, so I pedaled on. Of course, as always, I preferred to go into the mountains, so the trail continued...
No.49 – Japan – I love Hokkaido
Unfortunately, the rain just keeps coming down and it has been raining every day. Actually, I’m cycling continuously in wet clothes, but at 30 degrees Celsius it is never really cold. Every night I attempt to find a dry place for my tent because I...
No.48 – Japan – Wonderful Hokkaido
At the port in Wakkanai, on the northern tip of the northernmost Japanese island of Hokkaido, my entire bike was disinfected and my bags were thoroughly washed before I was allowed to take it off the boat. I would be allowed to stay 90 days in Japan. If I...
No.47 – Russia – Wilderness, bears, Island Sakhalin
The scenery was still just beautiful. At a raging river I had a long break. Finally there were no insects anymore and I was pleased with myself and the world. I suddenly had this crazy feeling of freedom that I always get when I’m in nature. I...
No.46 – Russia – The Russian adventure continues
On a sunny day I cycled off and pretty soon left Khabarovsk behind me and had a quick break at a small café. A drunken co-truck driver made a move on me but another guy helped me to get rid of him. The very friendly waitress instead...
No.45 – Russia – Adventure country
Luckily it was a very smooth ferry crossing. I stayed on deck and preferred to have the wind blowing around my ears, instead of sharing a stuffy cabin with 10 Koreans. Somehow I had enough of South Koreans. I am also a fresh air lover and I much prefer to...
No.44 – Korea Somehow a strange country
It finally became warmer and nature virtually exploded. I discovered many species of birds that are also native at home in Germany. A nuthatch, green and spotted woodpeckers and even the jay in a national park. The plants are also often the same and...
No.43 – Korea – A different kind of country
At the airport I was met by Brad. In Facebook Brad has a group called “Korea by bike” and we have been in contact for some time. I was very pleased that he took the trouble to pick me up. The airport is on an island and the streets are closed to...
No.42 – Taiwan – The mountain world
After the rigors of the Vipassana course, I continued on my journey with a truly relieved heart and stopped, first of all, at a 7-Eleven and treated myself to an ice cream. I stayed that night in the middle of Taichung in the city park. In reality, I wanted to...
No.41 – Taiwan – Vipassana Meditation course – or how a tiger feels in a zoo !
Months ago, I had signed up for a Vipassana meditation course in Taichung. I was on the waiting list, but then shortly before the course began, I received the e-mail confirmation. Many of you might be wondering why I wanted to meditate because I do that automatically...
No.40 – Taiwan – Biker’s Paradise
I continued to follow the east coast and cycled along beautiful bays and quaint fishing villages. I camped frequently on the beach or on small look-out towers and enjoyed life to the fullest. I was really in a good mood and answered every smile that...
No.39 – Taiwan – Warm-Hearted People
I hadn’t been on the island for one second when I already fell in love with the country. Briefly, I had my doubts getting into trouble, officially, I should not have been able to enter from the harbor with my temporary passport. But, with no further...
Nr.38 – China – it remains difficult !
At first, I was shocked when I saw Yangshou. Even in winter, all hell was breaking loose. There were parties, pubs, animated activity, and huge crowds of Chinese tourists. The prices were outrageous and it was anything but a beautiful, natural idyll surrounded...
No.37 – China — Smog, construction sites, and people everywhere
The border building at the Chinese side looked like a massive showing off structure. Luckily they processed the paperwork quickly. Thus, I had entered the monster sized country China for the third time since I left home. I was certain that this time, the country would...
Nr.36 – Vietnam – colourfully dressed minorities
From Sapa I went to Bac Ha, a place where there is a well-known market every Sunday. Although it is already very touristy, I had a very nice day and enjoyed the colorful dresses worn by the minorities. As often in Southeast Asia, where there are too many...
Nr.35 – Vietnam – Beautiful mountain scenery
This is my fourth visit to Vietnam. Here I was always amazed by the scenery, the culture and the diversity that this country has to offer. It is only the people who I sometimes found to be stressful, because the Vietnamese are perfect businessmen and...
Nr.34 – Laos – Peaceful, quiet and a long break
I was driving down the raod in the direction of Hongsa because Monica, a German living in Laos for 7 years, was there waiting for me. She had invited me to eat Kaes’ Spaetzle (German cheese noodle specialty) together with her. Weeks ago, she had...
Nr.33 – Sabaidee – Welcome to the 3rd World
At the border, the customs officials were doing lunch, so I had to wait a while before I could enter. I got the visa right at the customs counter – valid for 30 days. One more barrier and I entered the 24th country on my trip in the direction of...
Nr.32 – 25.000 Kilometers and No End in Sight
25,000 Kilometers and No End in Sight “19 Months in a Nutshell” In Montenegro, I had completed the first 5,000 kilometers of my trip; to arrive there, I had chosen a route through Eastern Europe climbing every mountain along...
Nr.31 – China – Yunnan – The Gate to Southeast Asia
Although the road was exhaustingly strenuous due to the endless steep hills, the landscape was breathtakingly beautiful. The mountains were blanketed lavishly with green vegetation and the fields spread across the landscape in a myriad of lovely colors. Perfectly...
Nr.30 – China – Yunnan – A new world
I left Shangri La on the main road to the south, which was a mistake, because there was significantly more traffic on that road than I expected. I would say it was the busiest highway I was on since I began traveling in China. There wasn’t much to see...
Nr.29 – China – Fantastic stretch of road on the way to Yunnan
Shortly after Ganzi, I turned off the main road into a side valley. It was an excellent road that led me directly along a swiftly flowing river. It was as beautiful as a dream. Fir trees – the entire hillside was full of fir trees! The air was clean and fresh...
Nr.28 – China – The Tibetan World in Sichuan
For once, it was sunny and warm as I left Yushu and in the open space outside the town, there was a huge Mani stone wall, where believers were placing their painted, labeled “Om mani padme hum” stones. May glory be to you, you jewel in the lotus blossom....
Nr.27 – China – Comedy of getting a new visa
After a 17-hour bus ride, I arrived in Xining in the middle of the night. Surrounded by giant skyscrapers, I searched the town for a place to spend the night. Luckily, in one hotel, the desk clerk was unaware of the regulations. At least, I was able...
Nr.26 – China – Endless Torture on a horrible trail
Golmud is a faceless city with a youth hostel where I looked forward to a shower. But – who would have thought? – I heard those familiar words again: “mei you”. “No! That can’t be true” I...
Nr.25 – China – The Endless Gobi Desert
After Gansu, the traffic signs were in Chinese and English, which made my life as a cyclist somewhat easier. The Gobi Desert seemed to be endless, but I was able to continue to motivate myself and was not really bored which could have easily happened in...
Nr.24 – China – Xinjiang Province
For seven long miles I cycled through a corridor secured with barbed wire – a brand new highway that, like a snake, looped from the Kazakh border to the Chinese border. There were cameras hanging on every lamp post along that highway. From then...
Nr.23 – Kazakhstan – short visit in a huge country
My first impression of Kazakhstan materialized in the driving habits of the people; I encountered a much more pleasant driving style there. Suddenly, the drivers were far more cautious; they passed me at a distance and honked only if they wanted to warn me....
No. 22 – Kyrgyzstan – pure nature !!!
On the way to Song Kul, a lake at 3000 meters altitude, I met a Dutchman named William, who was traveling with a Dutch cycling group. He was bringing up the rear and I felt a little sorry for him, because absolutely no one in the group seemed to be looking...
No. 21 – Kyrgyzstan – stunning scenery
Kyrgyzstan is the only central Asian country that allows a 2-month visa-free tourist residency. I had finally arrived in a place where there was no strict visa deadline and I could enjoy touring in the country and relaxing with no time pressure. I liked...
No.20 – Uzbekistan – travel-rage, travellers and police
On the border I had to fill out a zillion forms and my panniers were x-rayed again. I had to tell the officials how much money I had with me, the value of my bicycle, electronic equipment and so on. But everything went rather well, so I was quickly back on the road...
No. 19 – Turkmenistan – visa stress and a lot of sand
In the morning, I rode in the direction of the border and was curious about what I should expect. Since the Turkmen are only willing to issue a transit visa (instead a tourist visa) for tourists travelling alone, I was only allowed five days in the country. I...
No.18 – 1 year on the road – the highlights of the trip
Breakdowns: exchanged the rear wheel saddle chewed to pieces by a stupid dog speedometer only 5 punctures !!!!! handle bar grip broke after a crash 3 chains 3 torn gear shift cables 2 mirrors replaced 3 tail lights (2 were stolen) rear tyre replaced...
No.17 – Iran – police, wind and heaps of traffic
From Qom I continued northeast and made a lot of headway. In the evening, unfortunately, although it was already dark, I had no place to stay. There were open fields everywhere, which are not good places to pitch a tent, and I wasn’t too enamored with the...
No.16 – Iran – beautiful, but also very exhausting
I arrived at the harbor in Bandar Abbas in the morning and was immediately treated as a special case at immigration. I was allowed to pass a long queue of people and was first to be cleared through customs. That is still always very embarrassing to me. The...
No.15 – Oman – pretty wadis, steep tracks and a lot of wind
I was able to return to the trail again through Wadi Khabbah. A beautiful dream-like landscape surrounded me, but I had to work hard to get to the vistas. Once again, the road led along extremely steep, endless curves up the mountain. I...
No.14 – Oman – beautiful scenery, friendly people
Dubai, a sea of Skyscrapers, big shopping malls, multicultural and big cars. For a short time I thought I’d arrived in Manhattan. The traffic is mad. Full of bigheads driving their fancy cars without any consideration for anyone else...
No.13 – Iran – beautiful and very friendly people
Iran is thrilling. The people are extremely friendly, the mosques stunning and the culture varied and not easy to understand. I don’t regret visiting it at all , moreover, I am so happy to be able to learn more about the country. Iranian women have...
No.12 – From Armenia into Iran
I really enjoyed my time in Tbilisi a lot. I liked the city and I had big luck with my hosts. First Niko, a Georgian guy, and a few days later Taylor from the States. Both really nice blokes. Tbilisi is in a desperate shape in some areas, but this is exactly what...
No.11 – Cycling from Turkey to Tbilisi – Georgia
Finally I decided I should go to Iran. Therefore I needed to head back west, to the city of Erzurum, to get my visa at the Iranian consulate. I also wanted to pick up my parcel which was sent from home to a hotel in Erzurum. It contained warm clothes, new tires and...
No.10 – Dogubayazit / Turkey
Because of two rainy days, Rafael my present cycle partner from Spain and me extended our stay in Göreme and enjoyed the company of Anna and Olli from New Zealand as well as Lulu from China and Michael from France and listened to their bike stories. It was cold....
No.9 – Goereme – Cappadocia
Acropolis & Co were ticked off soon and didn’ t impress me much. Dimitris, my warmshower host in Athens, spoiled me with local food and heaps of information. Super. If I have a look at the world map seeing the short distance I covered so far it looks really tiny...
No.8 – Athens / Greece
I chose the road along the southern side of the Shadarsko Jezero Lake to get to Albania. But it wasn”t as easy as you might think. It was above 40 C and quite hilly, so I sweated a lot that day. But the scenery was pretty so it was worth every single drop of...
No.7 – Podgorica / Montenegro
My buttom bracket is damaged, but sadly the two mechanics I found were realizing after an hour fiddling around that they don’ t have the right part for it. I finished my time in Bulgaria with the visit of the impressive Rila monastery. The last couple of...
No.6 – Bulgaria/ Velingrad
In a small town in Transilvania quite close to the Trans Faragasan Pass, I was invited to stay in a weekend cottage. It was Sunday evening and the owners were just ready to leave. They gave me the keys, they left the fridge full of food and they let me pick my...
No.5 – Romania/ Sighisoara
At first Romania presented itself as wet and cold. The people instead warmhearted, open and curious. The country is more modern than I expected it to be. Even if there is no running water inside the houses and wells and outdoor toilets in...
No.4 – Bicycle touring Ukraine
Before I cycled off to the Ukraine I needed to say good bye to my new friends Michal and Freida where I was staying for a week while I waited for my new camera. We had a lot of fun together and especially Freida, the dog, didn’t want to let me go again. The...
No.3 – Poland/ Bieszczadzki National Park
Krakow was rather disappointing. I expected more, but I was really lucky because I had a great host through “warmshowers” in a shared flat with 6 vegetarian flat mates. They gave me a big welcome and they hosted me like a king. I stayed for 3 nights before...
No.2 – Bicycle touring Czech Republic
I left Prague on the 24th of May at midday. It´s always a bit tricky to leave a city on a pushbike and also a bit annoying and usually takes longer than expected. But I finally managed to get away from the traffic and I was looking forward to get back to more...
No.1 – Germany – The start of my bike ride around the world
Finally. my trip “Lets go East” started on the 14th of May 2013. It wasn’t easy starting, no not at all. Especially saying good bye to my mum was really hard. I pedalled along the “Bergstrasse”, the sky was grey. But honestly not just the...Hello, I am Heike :-)
Recent Posts
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No.92 Sierra Leone – In monsoon rain through one of the poorest countries on earth
A year of Africa in pictures – with tips on photography Part 1
No.90 Cycling in Guinea – friendliness, colors and monsoon
